Kildonan, Isle of Arran

On this visit to Kildonan I went rockpooling and focused primarily on photographing the denizens of the deep!

This blog entry is divided into shore sections, beginning in the wave-lapped rockpools of the lower shore and moving upwards past white-grained, inhospitable sand dunes until we reach the marshy coastal meadows at the foot of Kildonan's cliffs.

Kildonan is a very sheltered shore which means it has a high diversity of seaweeds, a very narrow/non-existant band of Verrucaria (a tarry black lichen of the upper shore) and very few barnacles or limpets (these can't compete with high densities of algae for footholds on rock surfaces and are effectively smothered).

Lower Shore:

Rockpools are scattered across the basaltic dykes: these are rich in marine invertebrates and trap many species of fish as the tide recedes (including Butterfish, Shannies, Tompot Blennies and Worm Pipefish).

Cuvie (Laminaria hyperborea) - a kelp - and the red seaweed (Ptilota gunneri) are found on the lowest part of this zone (scarcely exposed at low tide). Above these, there is a band of Toothed Wrack (Fucus serratus).

Shanny (Lipophrys pholis)

Shanny (Lipophrys pholis)

Shanny (Lipophrys pholis)

Shanny (Lipophrys pholis)

Shanny (Lipophrys pholis)

Shanny (Lipophrys pholis)

Shanny (Lipophrys pholis)

The Shanny or Common Blenny is distinguishable from all other UK blennies by the absence of paired tentacles above the eyes. Full-grown individuals can reach a length of 16cm, but the specimens I caught today were about half that.

The large pectoral fins have broad rays and act as webbed feet, allowing the Shanny to hop between oxygen-deficient rock pools and crawl into damp rock crevices at low tide.

During the breeding season (April-August) the male Shanny changes colour: darkening to a blackish-brown with whitish lips. After the female has laid her eggs, the male will guard the eggs for 2 months until they hatch.

Its scientific name means 'fatty-eyebrowed scaleless-fish' (Lipo = fatty + ophrys = eyebrow: Greek and pholis = scale: Greek for a type of slimy, scaleless fish?). 

Cuvie (Laminaria hyperborea) showing signs of grazing

Cuvie (Laminaria hyperborea)

Kelps are the 'trees of the ocean' and form dense 'underwater rainforests' or kelp beds to a depth of 30 metres: forming an extremely species-rich habitat. 

Cuvie (Laminaria hyperborea) is one of the larger British kelps, growing to 3.5 metres in length and with a lifespan of around 20 years. 

It is easily confused with its smaller relative Oarweed (Laminaria digitata), but Cuvie can be recognized by its easily snapped and rough-textured stipe (stem) unlike Oarweed (whose stipe is tough and slippery smooth). This allows colonization by epiphytes such as red seaweeds (Rhodophyta).

The visible kelp plant is actually one of two reproductive stages: the (diploid) sporophyte stage. The other stage, the microscopic (haploid) gametophyte, is either male or female. 

Sperm from male gametophytes fertilizes eggs produced by female gametophytes and the resulting zygotes develop into kelp plants (sporophytes) which mature and release zoospores (which grow into 'invisible' male and female gametophytes).

Ptilota gunneri with bryozoans (grey)

Ptilota gunneri is a stunning seaweed with blood-red, fern-like fronds and is an epiphyte on the stipes of Cuvie. See the greyish covering on the fronds? Those are mat-forming bryozoans.

Bryozoans on Ptilota gunneri

Bryozoans or 'moss animals' (bryo = moss + zoon = animal: Greek) are sessile filter-feeding invertebrates of   the Phylum Bryozoa. Most bryozoans form colonies composed of interdependent, genetically identical individuals called zooids (which are specialized for various functions such as feeding and defence).

Worm Pipefish (Nerophis lumbriciformis)

Worm Pipefish (Nerophis lumbriciformis)

Worm Pipefish (Nerophis lumbriciformis)

Worm Pipefish (Nerophis lumbriciformis)

Worm Pipefish (Nerophis lumbriciformis)

Worm Pipefish (Nerophis lumbriciformis) dorsal fin

Worm Pipefish (Nerophis lumbriciformis)

Worm Pipefish (Nerophis lumbriciformis)

Unlike the fiesty Shanny (which wriggles and nips when handled), the Worm Pipefish (Nerophis lumbriciformis) is a gentle, peaceable fish which slithers under rock ledges if disturbed and goes limp if caught. It's a master of camouflage, looking exactly like a strand of Thongweed or Bootlace Weed.

This is the smallest species of pipefish in the UK, reaching a maximum length of 15-17cm (again, my specimens were about half this). It can be easily identified by its short upturned snout, brown colouration and absence of all but the dorsal fin.

This fish is polygynandric: both sexes mate with more than one partner but females mate with more partners than males (males brood one female's eggs at a time and can only remate once that brood has hatched).

Like other members of the seahorse family, the female deposits her eggs on the ventral surface of the male who takes sole responsibility for their care until hatching.

The scientific name of the Worm Pipefish means 'worm-shaped wet-serpent' (Neros = wet + ophis = serpent: Greek, lumbrici = worm, from lumbricus + formis = shaped: Latin). 

Gutweed (Ulva intestinalis?)

Seaweeds of the genus Ulva vary greatly in form and are very difficult to identify. Those with tubular inflated fronds (gutweeds) were previously grouped in a seperate genus - Enteromorpha (literally, 'gut-shaped' in Greek). Species with flat, sheet-shaped fronds are known as 'sea lettuces'.

Enteromorphic Ulva seaweeds are found on all levels of the shore and can become abundant in areas with brackish water.

Ulva species are edible and can be rinsed and eaten raw in salads, cooked into soups or stir fried. In Japan, these seaweeds are known as 'green nori' or 'aonori' and are sold as dried sheets.

Sea Lettuce and Gutweed Recipes:

A collection of good sea lettuce recipes

Toasted gutweed with sesame seeds

Oyster risotto with deep-fried gutweed

Toothed Wrack (Fucus serratus) ripe male with Common Flat Periwinkles (Littorina obtusata)

Toothed Wrack (Fucus serratus) is very intolerant of desiccation and occupies a zone above kelp species but lower on the shore than other fucoids. 

It is the only wrack with serrated edges to its fronds which have prominent midribs and no air bladders.

The Lifecycle of Fucoid Seaweeds:

Gamete (egg and sperm) production occurs in conceptacles, which are located in the (sometimes swollen) frond tips (known as receptacles). Instead of having a separate gametophyte stage like kelps, meiosis takes place within the conceptacles, before gametes are formed.

Fucoids can be hermaphrodites (monoecious) or, like Toothed Wrack, have separate male and female plants (dioecious). In this species, ripe male plants (pictured above) have an orange hue. 

The eggs of many fucoids produce a species-specific chemoattractant to attract sperm (Toothed Wrack produces fucoserratin). Fertilized (diploid) zygotes develops into a new plants (sporophytes).

Middle Shore:

Here there is a zone of Bladder Wrack and Knotted Wrack (both moderately tolerant of desiccation).

Knotted Wrack (Ascophyllum nodosum) with Polysiphonia lanosa (bottom left)

Knotted Wrack (Ascophyllum nodosum) has long strap-like fronds without midribs along which are arranged large, unpaired ovoid air bladders. 

This is a slow-growing and long lived fucoid (up to 15 years) and has the ability to shed its outer epidermal layer (presumably to get rid of epiphytes).

Knotted Wrack is the preferred host for the red seaweed Polysiphonia lanosa, an obligate epiphyte which is thought to be partially parasitic, leeching nutrients through its hyphae.

Bladder Wrack (Fucus vesiculosus)

Bladder Wrack (Fucus vesiculosus)

Bladder Wrack (Fucus vesiculosus)

Bladder Wrack (Fucus vesiculosus) can be identified by its paired air bladders and its smooth, flat dichotomously branched fronds with prominent midribs. 

During the reproductive period the frond tips (receptacles) become puffy and swollen.

Common Flat Periwinkle (Littorina obtusata)

Colourful little Common Flat Periwinkles (Littorina obtusata) were sprinkled over the fucoid fronds in gorgeous shades of lemon, tangerine, deep orange and olive green. 

They can be instantly recognized by their bright colouration, their 'sanded smoothness' and by the 'tear-drop' shape formed by the shell aperture and anal sinus.

They graze mainly on Toothed, Knotted and Bladder Wracks.

Snakelocks Anemone (Anemonia viridis) brown colour morph

Confined to the western coasts of Britain, the Snakelocks Anemone (Anemonia viridis) occurs in two colour forms: one has vivid green tentacles with pink tips and the other (pictured here) is a dull khaki brown.

 Upper Shore:

Spiral Wrack forms a zone below Channeled Wrack on the high shore where there are big temperature fluctuations, few nutrients and only the most desiccation-resistant fucoids can survive.

Channeled Wrack (Pelvetia canaliculata) above, Spiral Wrack (Fucus spiralis) below

Spiral Wrack (Fucus spiralis) lacks air bladders and has smooth-edged fronds which are twisted and have prominent midribs. 

The hugely swollen reproductive receptacles (tips of the fronds) have a warty texture and have a slight keel (sterile edge of frond). 

Unlike other Fucus, this species is hermaphroditic.

Channeled Wrack (Pelvetia canaliculata) is the most desiccation-resistant British fucoid, capable of surviving 8 days out of water and able to lose 90% of its water content. Its smooth-edged fronds have no air bladders or midribs and are folded longitudinally to form moisture-retentive channels. 

During the reproductive phase, the 2-pronged receptacles become swollen and turn ochreous yellow.

This species is hermaphroditic - an adaptation to a short immersion period (limited reproductive opportunities).

Rocks

Sand Dunes:

A mini-desert: few vascular plants and lichens can withstand this dry, unstable and nutrient-poor environment.

Yellow Flag (Iris pseudacorus) in dunes

Bird footprints in sand (probably Hooded Crow's)

Oxeye Daisies (Leucanthemum vulgare) with cliffs of raised shore behind

Oxeye Daisy (Leucanthemum vulgare)

Oxeye Daisies (Leucanthemum vulgare)

Oxeye Daisies (Leucanthemum vulgare)

Oxeye Daisies (Leucanthemum vulgare) prefer well-drained soils and can tolerate sandy habitats. Its scientific name is Latin for 'having-a-white-flower common' (Leucos = white + anthemum = having a flower, vulgare = common).

Lichens (Lecanora rupicola?)

Ray's Knotgrass (Polygonum oxyspermum)

Ray's Knotgrass (Polygonum oxyspermum)

Ray's Knotgrass (Polygonum oxyspermum) is a locally distributed specialist of sand and shingle strandlines.

Key Identification Features:

• Glaucous (blue-green) leaves with slightly down-rolled margins.
• Glossy brown nut is longer than petals.
• Prostrate growth - creeps over sand.

Curled Dock (Rumex crispus) seeds

Curled Dock (Rumex crispus) is another colonizer of disturbed ground and a very adaptable plant. Like other Rumex spp. it's safe to eat!

The leaves/stalks are sour (due to oxalic acid) but rich in iron and vitamins A and C. The dried seeds can be pickled or ground into flour.

Curled Dock Seed Recipes:

Curled Dock Seed Vinegar

Curled Dock Seed Crackers

Sea Rocket (Cakile maritima)

Sea Rocket (Cakile maritima)

Sea Rocket (Cakile maritima)

Sea Rocket (Cakile maritima) is an edible, succulent-leaved crucifer which is specialized for sandy coastal habitats.

Key Identification Features:

• Conspicuously fleshy leaves.
• Lobed leaves are longer than broad.
• Seedpods have a 'waisted' hourglass shape.

Silverweed (Potentilla anserina)

Marshland and Damp Meadow:

Water Mint (Mentha aquatica)

Water Mint (Mentha aquatica)

The commonest wild mint in Scotland, Water Mint (Mentha aquatica) has a strong scent which isn't as 'sweet' as cultivated varieties but it can be used in the same way in recipes. The essential oil extracted from this and other mints, is powerfully antibacterial and fungicidal.

Common Fleabane (Pulicaria dysenterica)

Common Fleabane (Pulicaria dysenterica)

Absent from most of Scotland, Common Fleabane (Pulicaria dysenterica) is an unmistakable yellow daisy with a large central disc and short, square-tipped petals. 

It's very astringent and was traditionally used to treat dysentery (hence the species name dysenterica) and repel biting insects: as suggested by both its common and scientific names (pulicaria = of-fleas: Latin).

Other wildlife of interest seen during this walk:

• Otter - I saw something in the water, which I took for a seal. Later, it emerged from the water and bounded across the beach (all rippling muscle with a thick plank of a tail), disappearing into the wasteground adjacent to Kildonan Hotel.
• Oystercatchers - a few pairs.
• Hooded Crows.
• Sparrowhawk (male) - perched on rocky shore.
• 1 Redshank.
• Common Seals - the usual gang, happily snoozing!

Ardmore Point, Argyll and Bute - SSSI, SPA & Ramsar Site

The shore areas covered on this walk along the Clyde (from Cardross to Ardmore Point) form a part of 3 different designated protected sites: the Inner Clyde Site of Special Scientific Importance (SSSI), the Inner Clyde Ramsar Site and Inner Clyde Special Protection Area (SPA).

This section of the River Clyde shoreline is an SSSI because it contains saltmarsh (intertidal vegetation such as eelgrasses) and because it supports significant numbers of wintering birds, in particular: Eider, Cormorant, Goldeneye, Oystercatcher, Red-breasted Merganser, Red-throated Diver and Redshank.

Around 2100 Redshank feed here outside the breeding season (this being the reason for both SPA and Ramsar Site status).

Recent reports of Quail in central Scotland sparked predictions of a 'quail invasion' and tempted me to walk along these coastal arable fields, knowing I'd be lucky to even glimpse one.

Ardmore Point at low tide

I got a train from Dalmuir to Cardross (£6.60 return) and followed the footpath along the water's edge to Ardmore Point. In Cardross bay at low tide, House Martins collected mud from the shore for nest-building.
Sea Aster (Aster tripolium) grows in large mauve-flowered clumps on the beach near Cardross saw mill.

The African savannah? Or Scotland on a sunny (!) day?

Fields near Cardross

Fields near Cardross

Between Cardross and Ardmore Point the upper shore is rock/shingle, separated from the muddy lower shore by a band of slippery green algae and dark fucoid seaweed. Not the prettiest of shorelines, but the mud is packed with invertebrates and provides excellent feeding grounds for the veritable 'motorway' of birds channeling through in autumn/winter.

A rich variety of wildflowers, encompassing every colour of the rainbow, flourish on the edge of the arable fields: some are coastal species, some are arable weeds and others, garden escapees or naturalized exotics.

Hedge Bindweed (Calystegia sepium)

Hedge Bindweed (Calystegia sepium) unopened flower

The delicate white, gramophone-esque flowers of Hedge Bindweed (Calystegia sepium) poked their trumpets through the bramble bushes. It actually belongs to the same family as Sweet Potatoe (Convolvulaceae) but is known to have purgative effects (hence, inedible).

Red Campion (Silene dioica)

Canadian Goldenrod (Solidago canadensis)

Canadian Goldenrod (Solidago canadensis) is a widely naturalized, North American relative of our native Goldenrod (S.virgaurea).

The two can be distinguished by their flower arrangement:-

• Canadian Goldenrod has smaller-petalled 'tufty' flowers which form a distinctly PYRAMIDAL pannicle (arrangement). 
• Our native Goldenrod has loose, narrow pannicles of larger, fewer-petalled 'daisy-like' flowers. 

The leaves of all Solidago species contain a latex which Thomas Edison (the inventor of the lightbulb) used to manufacture rubber during a series of experiments beginning in the late-1920s (with the aim of discovering cheaper, home-grown alternatives to Indian rubber). There is an interesting page on this story here - with photos of the Goldenrod rubber.

Green Alkanet (Pentaglottis Sempervirens)

Another non-native, Green Alkanet (Pentaglottis Sempervirens) is a strikingly beautiful plant nonetheless. As you might expect from the colour of its flowers, it's closely related to Borage and Forget-me-nots (Boraginaceae).
Its scientific name, a mix of Latin and Greek, means 'Five-tongued always-green' (Penta = five + glottis = tongue: from Greek glōtta, Attic form of Ionic glōssa, semper = always + virens = to be green/verdant: Latin).

Greater Sand Spurrey (Spergularia media)

There are other very similar Spergularia species but Greater Sand Spurrey (Spergularia media) can be identified by these 3 key features:

1) Hairless.
2) Flowers have petals LONGER than sepals.
3) 10 stamens.

Pale Toadflax (Linaria repens)

Pale Toadflax is a naturalized non-native which mostly grows in dry, rocky waste ground habitats.

Sea Aster (Aster tripolium)

Sea Aster (Aster tripolium)

Despite looking a lot like the common garden-escapee Michaelmas Daisy, Sea Aster is one of our 2 native Aster species. It's a saltmarsh and maritime specialist able to tolerate high salinities.

Sea Aster Recipes: 

Buttered Sea Aster
Sea Aster Fish Bake
Sea Aster and Tomato Soup

Inland from Ardmore south bay (near Ardardan), I had excellent views of a singing Sedge Warbler. Also, flocks of Starling and House Sparrow. Ardmore north bay was filled with Curlew.

Aspen bark

Mugwort (Artemisia vulgaris)

When crushed in the hand, Mugwort releases a strong and deliciously medicinal aroma, reminiscent of absinthe. In fact, it belongs to the same genus as Wormwood (Artemisia absinthium): the chief flavouring in absinthe.

Unlike most members of the daisy family (Asteraceae), it has wind-pollinated flowers.

Mugwort has been used for centuries worldwide in traditional herbal medicine, particularly for treating worms, menstrual cramps and digestive complaints. It was also used as a flavouring in beer (before hops) and food (especially in Asian cookery). Experiments show that it has insecticidal (mosquitoes and beetles) and antihelminthic properties.

Mugwort Recipes:

Mugwort Rice Cakes
Korean Injeolmi Rice Cakes

Note: It's very bitter-tasting and contains thujone (toxic in large doses) so consumption should be avoided by pregnant women.

Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare)

Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare)

Tansy is a petal-less member of the daisy family (Asteraceae), belonging to the same genus as Feverfew. In the past it was frequently cultivated as a medicinal herb and was valued as a treatment for worms and external parasites, for repelling insects, to control menstrual bleeding and to induce abortions.

Like Mugwort, Tansy has a strongly medicinal scent, is very bitter and contains thujole (pregnant women should avoid eating it). 

Both the leaves and the button-like flowers yield a pale yellow dye when boiled.

Dyeing with Tansy: 

http://ibrakeforyarnhooksandbooks.blogspot.com
http://www.allfiberarts.com (Showing the effects of alum, tin and rhubarb mordants).
http://thirtyeightstitches.blogspot.com (Showing the effects of copper, iron and alum/cream of tartar mordants).

Sweet Cicely (Myrrhis odorata) ripe seedpods

Sweet Cicely can be identified by the following features:

• Strongly and sweetly scented. 
• Leaves and stems covered in DOWNY HAIRS. 
• White flowers. 
• Whitish, splash-like markings at base of leaves. 
• Seedpods = ridged, linear-oblong (canoe-shaped!), becoming shiny brown when ripe. 

As both its common and scientific name attest, all parts of Sweet Cicely have a pleasant anise-like fragrance and sweet flavour. It was traditionally used to treat coughs and to aid digestion.

Sweet Cicely Recipes: 

Rhubarb and Sweet Cicely Pudding (www.waldenlocalfood.co.uk)
Rhubarb and Sweet Cicely Pudding (www.telegraph.co.uk)
Sweet Cicely Custard (www.laetitiamaklouf.com)

Valerian (Valeriana officinalis)

Valerian (Valeriana officinalis)

Valerian (Valeriana officinalis)

Well known for its powerful sedative effects, Valerian also contains the alkaloid actinidine; a powerful cat-attractant, and may provoke a response in cats unresponsive to catnip. More info can be found here.

Yarrow (Achillea millefolium)

Yarrow (Achillea millefolium)

Two species of crucifer were growing along the edge of the path: the white flowered Garden Radish and the lemon-yellow flowered Sea Radish.

Garden Radish (Raphanus sativus)

Sea Radish (Raphanus raphanistrum maritimus) 

Wild Radish (Raphanus raphanistrum), the native ancestor of the Garden Radish, lacks the swollen root of its domesticated relative but is just as edible!
I *think* the Wild Radish pictured above is the subspecies maritimus, known as the Sea Radish, but I could be wrong. There's lots of variation within Raphanus and Wild Radish can have yellow, white or mauve flowers.

The most reliable way of separating them is to look at their seedpods:

• Consists of globular BEADS, EASILY BROKEN at joints and has long BEAKED tip = Wild Radish. 
•  Consists of globular BEADS, NOT EASILY BROKEN at joints and has long BEAKED tip = Sea Radish. 
•  UNBEADED = Garden Radish.

Dark Mullein (Verbascum nigrum)

The densely packed, pale yellow flowers (with a slightly waxy appearance) and dark red, hairy stamens of Dark Mullein are very distinctive. It also lacks the coating of silvery hair found on most mulleins.

Dotted Loosestrife (Lysimachia punctata)

Dotted Loosestrife (Myrsinaceae family) is yet another non-native and despite its name, it's not closely related to our native Purple Loosestrife (Lythraceae family).

This plant doesn't produce nectar, instead the flowers produce fatty oils in order to attract specialist pollinators: Macropis sp. 'oil bees' (which are absent from Scotland).

Perennial Sow-thistle (Sonchus arvensis)

Perennial Sow-thistle (Sonchus arvensis)

Set amongst brilliant blue skies and waters, the fireball flowers of Perennial Sow-thistle burn brightly in the sunshine. These sunbursts are savoury too! The slightly bitter leaves and flowers can be eaten raw or cooked and a coffee substitute can be made from the roots.

Sow-thistles exude a milky white sap when damaged - much like Dandelion's.

Sow-thistle Recipes:

Sauteed Sow-thistles (from www.foragingfoodie.net)
Sauteed Sow-thistles (from weirdcombinations.com)
Sow-thistle Lasagne
Chinese Vinegar Peanut Salad (with Sow-thistles)
Stir-fried Sow-thistles and Pork

In terms of nutrition, Sow-thistles contain at least as much vitamin C per gram as oranges, have a high 'omega 3' fatty acid content and, like other leafy greens, are a rich source of minerals.

At this time of year the shore is quieter, though I did see a large (easily disturbed) flock of Oystercatchers and some Curlew.

Oystercatchers (below) and Starlings (above)

I walked around Ardmore Point peninsula, where there are impenetrable thickets of hawthorn, golden-yellow gorse scrub and silvery-barked Aspens.

From the path, I saw a male Whitethroat singing prominently from a hawthorn - what a handsome bird! Warm sunlight caught the suffusion of pink on his breast and lent his white-rimmed eyes a reddish tint.

Common Blue butterflies were frequent on the upper shore (Ardmore Point).

On my return home I spotted a Turnstone and later, a Commic Tern*, both on the lower shore between Ardmore Point south bay and Cardross. There was also a flock of Goldfinches flitting about close to the path.

*Not a tern trying to be funny...birder-speak for those which can't be positively identified as either a Common Tern (Sterna hirudo) or an Arctic Tern (Sterna paradiseae).